Rev Limiter for MGB Survival

We surmised that we over-revved the MGB engine in the first race of 2012, because:

    1) there was no tachometer

    2) there was no speedometer

    3) the engine is underpowered, causing drivers to floor it all the time, for the entire 14 hours

    4) the 4 speed manual transmission really really needs a 5th and 6th gear, causing drivers to floor it all the time, for the entire 14 hours

So we installed a tachometer from another MGB and rotated it so that 5250 is pointing straight up - she really could use a "shift now" light for gears 1, 2, and 3 and a "sit back - you're just along for the ride at this point" light for 4th gear. Some day.

We installed a Rev Limiter instead since our driver pool is often hungover and barely focusing on the road ahead much less the little numbers on the tach.

The Rev Limiter we ended up with was the Procomp Single Stage Rev Limiter PC2031, and it did just fine as far as well could tell. 

1-800-Dial-a-Prayer!

Also on the menu was a new fuel pressure regulator, the Holly Fuel Pressure Regulator had died after a failed attempt at rebuilding the internals with new rubber and filter element. Oops.

All those pretty blue AN fittings were a real pain to match up, but they sure mate nicely and are clean etc etc. Soooo un-MGB like.

MGB Fuel Pressure to Weber Carb should be about 4.5 psi and very shiny.

Gormless indeed

This weekends adventures... 1.5 weeks till the race and we are indeed GORMLESS!!!!!!!!!!

The alternator was not charging the battery at all, thereby causing sadness where the joy of ignition should reside.

Took apart the alternator (the only way to see which of the four alts used that year is on the inside cover. Cheeky Brits.) and found a disconnected connection between the first circuit board and the second. Lucas Was Here!

I will do some gymnastic-surgery and repair it, however the question is now: should I scrounge a junkyard alt, order the circut board part, or just buy a new alt for it?? If this connection failed, the others will not be far behind. You can't tell from the pic, but there are several charred and/or melted looking wires, insulation, connections, or terminals.


As for the radiator leak, turns out is was the overflow nipple that was loose. It was a press fit.
Larry & Bob tried to solder it and clean it and solder it and weld it and clean it and solder it and melt it and braze it, all for naught. Condenses on the MGB list is that it should only leak when the radiator cap opens, and that should only be under overheating conditions, so it's not do or die. Choices for this particular mini-disaster are:

1. Use some good epoxy and try to Gerry-rig it
2. Swap the radiator with the '79 (not exact same though)
3. Take out rad, take to radiator repair shop.
4. Leave as is; Keep Calm and Carry On